| In 1843, when a
youthful Queen Victoria had reigned for less than a
decade, the Hudson's Bay Company established a fort on
the site of today's Bastion Square. In an era known for
its formality and elegance, early Victoria must have
seemed like the wild frontier to the first British
settlers particularly in 1858, when more than 25,000
rough-and-ready miners flooded into the Old Town district
on their way to the Cariboo Gold Rush. The new
Victorians quickly set about "civilizing" the
wilderness. With their fine English china, brought around
Cape Horn by sailing ship, they staunchly upheld the
tradition of afternoon tea, and began building a city of
refined architecture and cultural sophistication on the
frontier. Perhaps it was this early determination to
preserve a gracious way of life that has kept Victoria so
traditional, so charming and so civilized to this day. A
century later, Victorians are still dedicated to the
city's heritage and quality of life. The heart of
historic Victoria radiates from the Inner Harbour. A
downtown walking tour or horse-drawn carriage ride will
take you past heritage buildings, historic sites and
fascinating attractions.
Stroll
along the waterfront Causeway and you'll be surrounded by
the Parliament Buildings (begun 1893), the newly restored
Empress Hotel (1908), the glass-roofed tropical
conservatory of the Crystal Garden (1925) and the Royal
British Columbia Museum, one of North America's leading
natural and human history museums. Continuing up
Government Street, dozens of 19th century shop fronts
line the road with many more heritage buildings in the
surrounding blocks of Old Town.
Bastion
Square, which runs between Government Street and the
Wharf Street waterfront, is lined with 19th-century
buildings, including Victoria's original Court House
(1889), where long ago Judge Matthew Begbie earned his
nickname "the hanging judge." Today, it houses
the Maritime Museum and the oldest working elevator in
North America. Along Wharf Street are some of the city's
oldest buildings, including the original Customs House
(1876) at the foot of Broughton Street. Today, you can
shop, gallery hop or sip cappuccino at a sidewalk cafeé
steps from the waterfront where sailing ships once
unloaded their cargoes.
A
couple of blocks north is Market Square, a restored block
that includes the original Occidental Hotel, which once
welcomed Klondike gold miners in 1898. Today, Market
Square is a lively enclave of shops and restaurants,
where you may find a performance or festival happening in
the natural amphitheatre of the treed courtyard. Just up
Pandora Street, you'll find Centennial Square, the site
of Victoria's historic City Hall (1878), and the
McPherson Playhouse, originally built as the Pantages
Theatre in I914.
A
block away, the majestic Gate of Harmonious Interest
welcomes you to the oldest Chinatown in Canada. Narrow
Fan Tan Alley was once known for the gambling and opium
dens that lay behind its doorways. Chinatown is now
beautifully restored, with exotic wares and the aroma of
oriental cuisine spilling out into the bustling street.
This
fascinating journey into the heart of Victoria has taken
you less than 10 blocks from the Inner Harbour Causeway.
And you've only begun to see Victoria's architectural
heritage. The many spectacular historic churches make a
wonderful heritage tour in themselves.
And
a few minutes from downtown are the tree-lined streets of
gracious residential neighborhoods like Rockland and Oak
Bay, with gingerbread trimmed Victorian homes and grand
Tudor-style mansions surrounded by manicured lawns and
gardens. Tucked away in the Rockland area are the lush
grounds of the Government House, the official residence
of B.C.'s Lieutenant-Governor, and historic Craigdarroch
Castle (begun 1885) with its imposing stone facade and
fanciful turrets.
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